Sharon Davis wheels her way along the 175 km Rhine Skateline route from Bad Ragaz to Schaffhausen through eastern Switzerland … an intimate way to discover the natural wonders and delights of a foreign country.

It was a warm 21 degrees, and the autumn breeze was just enough to cool the heat of the day, sweep my hair back a little, and have the yellow-orange leaves falling around me like confetti as I left Bad Ragaz (renown for its healing thermal springs) and set off tentatively to explore Switzerland on skates.

Armed with my camera, some water, a snack or two, an arsenal of plasters (for the blisters that never materialised), arnica tablets (in anticipation of some rather sore leg muscles, that also didn’t materialise) and the Skatelines Schweiz (the German guide-book for the three main skating routes through Switzerland), I set out secure in the knowledge that my luggage would arrive at my evening destination, in one piece, long before I did – with the help of the portage service offered by Swiss Trails.

Courage gently won the battle against nerves as I rolled slowly, very slowly, trying to regain the confidence of a misspent youth on wheels. The last time I had skates on my feet (apart from one short beachfront practice whiz back home) was exactly 20 years ago – but the good news is that skating is like riding a bicycle – you don’t forget. I progressed from nervous, to tentative, to reasonably confident on wheels (despite the wet roads and obstacles provided by mother nature and cows), and it was not long before my wheels were gently humming through the beautiful countryside; I found myself enjoying the exhilaration and thrill of skating, with the freedom to stop and savour the spectacular scenery whenever I chose.

After about an hour of enjoying the tranquil countryside roads, passing a menagerie of friendly and curious farm animals, I reluctantly left the farmland behind (but not before a fond farewell lick from a rough-tongued cow). My route took me through a quiet forest and then joined the cycle path – reserved for people-powered traffic – and there I was skating merrily alongside a petulant grey-looking Rhine, keeping pace with the wide, flowing river, clocking up a reasonable distance.

In Switzerland you can skate on roads as long as they do not have a painted middle line (usually quiet country roads); otherwise on skate, cycle and hiking paths (which abound in this health and exercise conscious country), or on the pavements of roads with a middle line. It is not necessary to wear protective gear (helmet and a variety of knee, elbow and wrist guards) but it is recommended. The roadways that allow skating are generally well asphalted (making for pleasant skating) and quiet, with little motor vehicle traffic. With more than one million active skaters in Switzerland, good quality hiking/cycling/skating paths abound. They are wide enough for between two to four skaters abreast; and are often shared with cyclists and hikers, affording the opportunity for good camaraderie and a quick chat.

The route was flat, and required a slight effort for forward propulsion – no freewheeling. The flatness was noted with some relief, as I had harboured some doubts about the possibility of skating one’s way through alpine country, despite assurances from the travel guides. These specialised routes give you the freedom to skate at leisure – or for the total fitness nut, to skate full-steam – and the wonderful luxury of being able to stop, at will, to get that spectacular shot or just enjoy the view. Switzerland is just as you see it in the travel brochures: chocolate box pictures, with obliging cows in position, just waiting to be snapped.

But, of course, it’s not 100% flat. At roughly the 22 km mark I reached the turn-off for the town of Buchs, near the border of the principality of Liechtenstein, and decided to call an end to my skating adventures for the day. Negotiating my way downhill into town was a little hair-raising – especially since my route until then had been nothing but flat, and as an ex-indoor skater I had yet to make the transition to effective downhill braking. I am sure I was not the only one to have a laugh at the strange sight of a lone skater (with fast downhill descent adrenalin dump jitters) trying to make the transition from wheels to wobbly walking once the skates came off.

I used my Swiss Pass to catch the train from Buchs to Heerbrugg and watched the scenery whirr past with less effort, but without the luxury of being able to stop to admire any particular vista. Then I boarded the postal bus (travel also covered by the Swiss Pass), S-bending my way uphill to my overnight stop in Heiden.

Visitors to Switzerland can choose to purchase any of a variety of first or second-class travel passes that will allow for travel on combination of trains, trams, buses and/or ferries (depending on the pass) throughout the greater part of Switzerland, either at half fare or at no further charge.

The next skating day dawned miserable and wet, but I set off regardless and caught the train from Heiden down to Rorschach on the shore of Lake Constance. I made an admirable 32 km that day, spending about four hours actively skating. The rain did ease off, and I enjoyed an array of diverse scenery from rolling grape-rich vineyards to bright red apple orchards, through towns and farmlands – greeting cows, horses, donkeys, eager cyclists, chatty hikers and streamlined skaters alike - relieved not to be the only madman out in this weather!

The route was not as flat as the previous day’s, and I huffed and puffed my way up a few bumps … and I won’t admit to how I went down the other side, except to say that it wasn’t freewheeling and that on day two I still could not brake effectively, if at all. But for the most part it was flat and easy skating.

Although it is a form of active adventure travel, sightseeing on skates is as strenuous – or as relaxed – as you want it to be. Most of the routes run near railway lines and you simply travel as far as you feel able, and you’ll find a train station within a few kilometres to take you where you need to be. If you are not an acclimatised skater you will find it a little kidney-rattling and by the end of the day your knees will feel creaky, your back could be joining in with a discordant chime – but it eases within a few minutes of stopping; and anyone with reasonable fitness would be able to enjoy a skating excursion without ensuing aches and pains, without having to train for it.

I pushed on to Altnau before taking my skates off (to the relief of all body parts) and boarding the warm and dry comfort of the train. I disembarked at Steckborn and trudged wearily to my hotel with sweat, freeze-dried by the icy wind coming off the lake, leaving an unpleasant a crusty feel on my body. It was nothing that a bath and some hot food couldn’t cure – and by the time Reudi Jaisli from Swiss Trails (and author of the skating guide mentioned earlier) called to check if we were still on for skating as a group tomorrow, regardless of the weather - I recklessly said: “Of course!”

Day three dawned wet and angry. It was 12 degrees with a biting wind coming off Lake Constance that somehow didn’t seem to affect the preening swans on the lake as much as it did me. By now, wet roads, sliming leaves and dropped seed pods were obstacles to which I had become accustomed, and I had an enjoyable 12 km skating to our lunch stop, even learning (finally) to use my brake (after a fashion).

We rolled into Stein am Rhein alongside a greener-looking Rhine and after a brief look at the amazing painted facades depicting the history of the city, and a small linger over lunch, we set off again heading for Schaffhausen just as the rain began to fall. The rain did not stop until well after I did, much later that night.

In the next section the difference in skate performance became painfully apparent. I was pushing hard to keep pace with the freewheeling of my Swiss counterparts. They had serene smiles of enjoyment, while I was wondering whether my kidneys had been wobbled to jelly – until I realised that their skates not only had bigger wheels and better bearings, but shock absorber pads too.

We whizzed (some having an easier time than others) past hikers, waved hello at castles and even wheeled over the border into Germany for a short few kilometres before crossing back into Switzerland. With the carrot of home (and the resultant rest) firmly fixed in my mind, the lady with the donkey skates managed to enjoy the last seven kilometres (slightly downhill and lovely smooth asphalt next to a beautiful forest) into Schaffhausen. I even caught myself smiling with a sense of accomplishment as the rain fell, and I heard my wheels hissing on the wet pathway.

My skating journey ended as we whizzed downhill into Schaffhausen (now one of my favourite towns in Switzerland), some 38 km from our starting point. The old cobbled streets required that I take my skates off for the last time (I was so disgusted with them that I subsequently dumped them in the nearest bin) and walk the last section to a welcoming warm bath.

I will be back – with a new pair of decent skates. Perhaps I will try the Mitteland route: 200 km from Zurich airport to Neuchatel; or the Rhone route: 220 km from Brig to Geneva next.

Travel Tips

Switzerland’s compact size and superb public transport system (with clocklike punctuality and synchronised timetables) and many cycle, hiking and skating paths make the fascinating towns and cities and majestic mountains wonderfully accessible to visitors. You can plan a safe, but exciting adventure holiday (to suit your level of fitness and budget) with enough leisure time to enjoy a feast of art and culture; with time to discover charming mediaeval towns, Baroque monasteries, ancient castles and elegant mansions; or simply escape to the countryside and take advantage of the miles and miles of well-marked trails and enjoy the pristine delights of nature.

Switzerland Tourism’s website www.MySwitzerland.com is comprehensive and offers a wealth of detailed information to plan your visit.

For information about the Swiss Travel System, including train timetables, fares and bookings visit www.sbb.ch